Torta di pere - Italian pear cake

My paternal grandmother is from Périgord, fruits there are abundant. Growing up I enjoyed going over for "le goûter" as often we, children, could expert thin apple tarts, apple sauce and many other sweet treats. One thing, my grandmother always had was a bowl with fresh fruits. She always commented this was a necessity. My mother studied arts in Italy and requested that we, children, learn Italian over Spanish as a third language. We travelled to visit family friends in Venice. As a child, I remember the banana tea and their amazing sweets found at their local "pasticeria". My husband and I visited Pompei about 2 years ago, I enjoyed visiting and tasting many of the local sweets including their artisanal "gelati" (ice creams) during our trip. My husband being from the country side does not care as much as me for delicate complicated desserts commonly found at bakeries in Paris. He is also used to having more rustic desserts. Italian desserts depending on the region appear to be more simple as more rustic though in my opinion this traditional italian cake is a staple recipe. If you like pears and don't care for overly sweet desserts, you most likely will enjoy this simple though flavorful cake.

Torta di pere

Ingredients:

3-4 ripped pears (I use Anjou and Bartlett pears)
1 1/4 cup all purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup corn starch
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
3 eggs
1/3 cup butter + a bit more to butter the pan

optional almond extract or amaretto liquor

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degree fahrenheit. In the bowl of a mixer, cream the eggs and sugar until creamy in consistency. In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, corn starch, baking powder and salt. Add gradually and sift the dry ingredients to the eggs and sugar mixture. When well incorporated, add the lightly melted soft butter and mix well, the batter should seem smooth. Pour the batter into your buttered pan. Prep the pears, peeled and cut them into chunks. Add them to your pan, press them gently into the batter. Then bake for about 30-35 minutes or until sides seem golden and tooth pick comes out clean. Let the cake cool before enjoying it.

Optional: if you like the taste of almond like I, feel free to add into your batter a tsp of pure almond extract or even some amaretto liquor. I find almond flavor enhances and compliments well the flavor of the pears in this cake.

Pear frangipane tart

Growing up in France, I remember when my family would go to our country home in Normandy to escape the chaos of Paris. One of my favorite thing there was beside going to the beach and fish for shrimps, mussels and even dover sole (flat fish), the backyard. First, I must say my french grandparents spoiled us. The house in Normandy had a backyard though it was more like a verger, we had apple trees, hazelnut trees and a cherry tree. I have found memories of climbing the ladder and helping my grandfather collect the fresh hazelnuts from the branches. I speculate my love for nuts and fresh fruits was instilled by my grandmother. She was from Périgord, a region known for walnuts, foie gras de canard, black truffle...  Each year, our family ate fresh walnuts from Périgord, then in the summer and fall, we would enjoy fresh hazelnuts. Then through winter, we would keep busy making homemade apple compote from all the apples collected at the end of summer and throughout the fall.

Though besides walnuts and hazelnuts, I learned at a young age to love almonds though mostly in the form of "frangipane" a sweet filling to many traditional french treats: pear and frangipane tart, galette des rois, and almond at its finest in decadent macarons.

My spouse who also grew up in France though in Auvergne, finds almonds to be his sweet sin. He enjoys anything with almonds. Hence, his insisting request that I bake often italian almond tarts, pear and frangipane tarts and galette des rois.

This recipe requires a basic tart dough known in France as "pâte sablée"

Basic Tart Dough (for one 24 cm (9 1/2") tart)

Ingredients:

1 large egg yolk
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
2 Tbsp ice water (more if needed)
1/3 cup sugar (90g)
1 1/4 cups all purpose unbleached flour (200g)
1/2 cup cold unsalted butter (125g) (cut into small pieces

In a small bowl, mix together the egg yolk, ice cold water and vanilla (set aside). In a larger bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, then add the butter cut into pieces. Using your hands, mix the dry ingredients with the butter until the texture resembles coarse meals (like small peas). Then add the wet ingredients mixture. Using your hands, mix the dough together and add more water if needed until dough pulls together.

Tips: you can use dough right away or chill dough for easier rolling.
Note: I don't care for much sugar, so I scale back on the sugar and only use 1/4 cup.

Blind bake the tart shell at 375 fahrenheit degrees for about 20 minutes.

Filling

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups almond flour (raw unblanched almond finely ground)
2/3 cup sugar
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 tsp pure almond extract
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
2 Tbsp dark rum
1/4 tsp salt
2-3 Anjou or Bartlett pears riped, peeled, halved and cored.
1/3 cup apricot jam
2 Tbsp unsalted butter

Melt the butter then let it cool. In a bowl, mix together the almond flour, sugar, then add the eggs, vanilla and almond extracts, rum and melted butter. Stir together. Spread the frangipane in the partially baked tart. Then slice your pears, keeping the pear slices together. Using a knife, lift the sliced pear halves and transfer to the tart shell. Arrange the halves (core side down, stem end toward the center of the pan) (see pictures). Using your hand, press slightly the slices into the filling. Bake the tart (375 fahrenheit degrees) until the filling is slightly golden and seems firm to the touch (about 40-45 minutes).

Following is optional (I don't find it necessary). Let the tart cool. In a saucepan over low heat, heat the jam until it liquefies. Using a pastry brush, brush the top of the tart with the jam (thin coating), it will make it shine.

Notes: I actually cut back on the sugar and the egg. I tend to use large brown eggs so I don't need 2 and as I often make my tart dough same day I make this tart, I use the white left over from it and add it with 1 egg. I also use 1/4-1/3 cup sugar instead of 2/3 cup. Last, instead of rum, I use Amaretto (italian almond flavored liquor).

Savory French popovers

My husband is from the region of Auvergne. We both love cheese, in particular "Blue cheese". I have to say we both have our favorite blue cheeses. I enjoy milder creamier blue cheeses, while my husband loves strong more bitter blue cheeses. I love "Bleu d'Auvergne", "Fourme d'Ambert" and for a coarse blue cheese, "Société Roquefort". My husband particularly enjoys "Gabriel Coulet Roquefort", Société Roquefort". About two years ago, as we were traveling to visit our families in France, we visited the Roquefort caves, what a savory treat.

I thought I would make a special savory treat in honor of our love of blue cheese: Roquefort popovers.

Ingredients:

1 cup flour
pepper to your taste (I like coarse black and red pepper, while others may prefer white pepper)
1 1/4 cup milk
1 Tbsp butter
2 eggs
Roquefort crumbles

Mix the pepper and flour. In a separate bowl, mix the eggs and milk, then melted butter. Add to dry ingredients. Pour liquid like batter into your popover pan then add your Roquefort crumbles. Bake at 350 Fahrenheit degrees for 15-20 minutes.

Bon appétit!

Tuscan salt for rubs

Fall approaching, I thought about the stews and roasts I will be soon making into the winter. This made me think about the rubs I use. I like flavors from herbs and I love garlic being French, so the Tuscan Salt seems great. A blend of coarse sea salt, rosemary, thyme, sage and garlic.
Having abundance of fresh rosemary and german thyme, and having always on hands garlic, I thought I would make my own Tuscan Salt rub. I omitted the use of Sage as I have none and knowing my husband loves garlic, I thought I would make my own version of Tuscan Salt tailored to our own palates.

I started with separating the thyme leaves from its branch, can be a tedious work though well rewarded, it smelled so good. Then I went on doing the same with rosemary. Aside I poured 1/3 cup of french coarse sea salt (I like "La Baleine" sea salt (I grew up with it) - coarse is Red package/ fine is Blue package- I find it at Whole Foods) into my food processor, I then added 3 cloves of garlic, which I cut in halves as to remove the stem inside. I chopped it roughly as to get the garlic chopped and incorporated into the salt. I then added my blend of fresh herbs (german thyme and rosemary), I chopped it again, then added some more salt, blended it again. Then I added a bit more rosemary and 2 more cloves of garlic and a bit more salt. I blended it again. And Voilà I had my own Tuscan salt (omit the sage). I poured my processor content onto a baking sheet as to let the salt dry out. I comprehend some recipes call for baking it in the oven as to dry it faster. I don't as I strongly believe that if over baked you will lose the aromas/essential oils from the herbs. After leaving it out to dry out for up to 2 days, I pour it into a sealed jar.

Note: I normally like to use a knife as I think it can be easy to over-process when using a food processor, though if you are careful, you will be fine.

I also like to make rosemary salt. I mince up fresh rosemary and let it dry with coarse sea salt into a jar. About a week later (even less), the salt has absorbed the fragrant rosemary and it has becomes a great flavored salt to sprinkle onto raw meat or poultry (rub) or add to any recipe calling for a pinch of salt.

If you are growing your own herbs, you know as well as I that it can grow like weeds. This year, I have had so much herbs such as basil, German thyme, rosemary and mint that I had to be creative. I have made so much pesto, I also chopped fresh basil which I conserve into ice cubes with olive oil and froze. For the remaining herbs, I have made rubs and homemade fragrant salts.

I have not done much yet with my mint though I think I may try my hand at making mint herbal tea.

Fall is approaching, soon it will be time for stews, roasts and soups...

Being someone who likes to be prepared and enjoys cooking, I confess I tend to do quite a bit of research about what I buy for the Kitchen (from the produces I cook with, to the spices I use to the tools I cook/bake with). Reality is that buying good quality tools can be expensive though does not need to be. I thought I'd share my finds over the last few months.

First, let me elaborate and say that in my opinion there are various types of cooks, though two that really stand out. Some can cook using whatever leftovers are found in the fridge and what is in the pantry then there are those that follow recipes very carefully. Either way, I believe cooking requires "good tools". I am the first one to admit I have attempted to make meals at my then boyfriend now husband's studio with whatever pots and pan he had though often the results were fine, I found the cooking to be a bit laborious, I didn't have the right pans to have the even cooking... I will even add that trying to cut a roast with a dull knife is not easy. The point being there are certain things in a kitchen that I will rely on to cook with more ease: good cutting knives and good pots.

For knives, trust me when I say I know how expensive they can be. Just have a look on Williams-Sonoma website. Well, I go to rummage sale in nice neighborhoods and shop at TJ Maxx, Homegoods stores for a cheaper price.

For Le Creuset cast iron pots, I actually found the outlet store to be still too pricey. So I check thrift stores and again shop at TJ Maxx, Homegoods stores. I also discovered through researches online that Le Creuset has Second Choice pots that TJ Maxx and Homegoods stores often sell. By "Second Choice" is often meant small blemish on enamel coating, variation of color, not uniformity of coating... though really most time, nothing really visible unless you really look for. Hence, the pots are fine for cooking though often much more affordable. Again, note also that these stores also have new not "second choice" pots. I personally acquired one regular and one second choice at my local store.

This year, I added two more Le Creuset pieces to my kitchen (I bought these at my local TJ Maxx/Homegoods store.)

A bit of Paris, my home here

In France, "le concept de la maison", the concept behind home is how you feel at home. For instance, in Paris, most people live in crowded 2-3 rooms apartments. Hence, the importance of making the most of your space while ensuring you don't feel clustered. Growing in Paris and especially in the Latin Quarter, I was exposed to beautiful spaces. When I first came to the United States, beside the culture shock, I missed most my ability to walk anywhere as here in the suburbs, I now had to drive, I also felt homesick. I felt as if most homes felt too sterile, too new, too modern as if lacked a soul. I mean I grew up in a 1700 building, my parents' apartment had beautiful history: from the ceiling mold to the marble chimney to the big french doors windows... I have to say, I also was lucky, my parents were "chineurs", they are passionate antique collectors. They went to auctions in the country, to antique dealers, to local flea markets... As a result, our apartment displays the traditional french charm. While I can't recreate the architecture in my apartment, I certainly surrounded myself with bits to remind me of home: Paris and France.
As a child, I already loved the architecture details of the buildings in my quarter, the atlantes surrounding the doors... I loved also escaping to the Luxembourg garden, a 5 minutes walk from my home. As a result, when I came to live in the United States, I missed my sanctuary: the streets of Paris. As a teenager, I would often in the evening walk from home to Montmartre, passing the Opera house, the Haussman boulevard with the famous Le Printemps store. Another favorite evening stroll would be crossing the Pont Neuf bridge and pass through the Place Dauphine (midway on the bridge) to head toward Notre Dame on Ile de la Cité to then head toward Ile St. Louis where I would stop to truly taste and relish into the best sorbets I dare anyone to ever taste: the Berthillon House's frozen treats. My old time favorites: Pear, Dark cacao, Peach, Raspberry, Marrons glaçés, Mirabelle... according to the seasons.
My point is part of living in Paris is being a passerby, to wonder within the streets and get "lost". Trust me if you grow up in Paris, you don't get lost though what I mean by getting "lost" is feeling, experiencing Paris. Paris contrary to the suburbs of Chicago, is an older city, it has a history and hence a soul in my opinion. When you wonder in Paris, you are then experiencing Paris and its charm. For instance, some quartiers have hôtels particuliers, or sometime as you walk by a building front door, you may get lucky and peek if door is open and see a hidden garden or courtyard: another world. Anyhow, I suppose this is part of why Paris has eluded so many artists alike: writers, painters and photographers who with their respective art, have attempted to capture and recreate through their art.
As a child, I loved pictures, I found them to be magical. I could look at a picture and felt immediately transported back in time. As a teenager, I fell in love with Black and White pictures: Doisneau, Bresson and many anonymous photographers. As a result, I started to collect pictures in format of Postcard that spoke to me. These became very important here: I use my postcards to make me feel home: Paris.

Le pain d'épices

I noticed that as I tend to get overwhelmed, I enjoy escaping into the kitchen. It seems that my kitchen becomes my refuge. As many I am certain, when stressed I seek safety by returning to my childhood. Yesterday as I recalled fond memories at my paternal grandmother, I remembered as a young child enjoying thick yummy slices of "pain d'épices" - traditionally a cake from the region of Alsace-Lorraine. Anyhow, I decided to bake one, mine is currently in the oven as I am typing. I had the recipe in french hence the measurements in grams. I attempted my best at converting them into cups equivalent. It is traditionally a cake enjoyed in the winter and especially around Christmas, though I find it to be a nice alternative to pumpkin pie or pecan pie around Thanksgiving. I have made some with pecans, though the original recipe does not call for pecans.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup honey
• 2 tbsp hot water
• 3/4 cup flour (though you can go a bit over as 200 g)
• 1/4 cup brown sugar (50 g casonnade)
• spices according to your taste buds (I use apple spices mix (cinnamon, nutmeg, anis))
• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 1 tbsp baking soda
• 1 egg

• 1/2 cup halves pecans (optional)

Set oven at 370 degree Fahrenheit. Into a bowl, using the hot water to smooth the honey then incorporate the flour, mix well as to avoid forming lumps.  Add to the mix the baking soda, brown sugar, vanilla, mix well then  add the egg. Pour smooth batter into a cake pan, bake for 30-35 minutes. 

Note: I cannot describe the divine smell sipping from the oven. I just had a peek, I must admit as the smell hits my nostrils, I was flooded with childhood memories: I am back in my grandmother's living room/dining room (small apartments in Paris) and I cannot await to bite late into a slice. I suppose this is what I enjoy most about baking or cooking. Not only does it feel magical to me, from various ingredients blended together comes extraordinary "délices" but it also seems that some sweets or meals can transport you back in times. I hope you'll enjoy it too.